Colour Theory Face Charts & Make-Up

Colour theories create a logical structure for colour. For example, if you had an assortment of fruits, you could organise them by colour & place them on a circle that shows the colours in relation to eachother. 

http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-design/basic-color-theory

A colour wheel or a colour circle is an abstract illustrative organisation of colour hues & a circle that shows the relationship between primary colours, secondary colours, & tertiary colours. 

How colour reacts in relation to other colours & shapes is a complex area of colour theory. Compare the contrast effects of different colour backgrounds for the same red square; 

Red appears more vibrant against a black background & somewhat duller against the white background. In contrast with orange, the red appears almost lifeless, this is because these colours are analogous. 

Analogous; Colours that are next to eachother on the colour wheel 

Complementary; Colours that are opposite eachother on the colour wheel

Achromatic; Black, white, grey & neutral colours Chromatic; The actual colours/ warm & cold colours

Monochromatic; All the shades within one colour - light to dark

Out of the five colour theories, Analogous, Complementary, Achromatic, Chromatic & Monochromatic , our task was to create two of these make-ups on a face chart & then two on a human face. This is how my face charts turned out; 

This is my achromatic face chart.

This is my monochromatic face chart. We also had to create a second monochromatic face chart to then apply to our models during our lesson with Kat. This is the my face chart I created & the make-up on the model, once it was completed;

I really like the outcome of my make-up that I produced on my model because it was the first real time of applying make-up professionally. I really enjoyed it & for a first attempt, I believe it came out looking good. Obviously now looking at it, I could have blended slightly more & also I could have made it slightly more even, but these are skills that I will pick up on over time. But I believe I did do a good job at this & I am more that happy with how it turned out in comparison to my face chart. 

I then had to create two looks on the models face. For this, I chose to do an analogue make-up & a complimentary make-up. This is the outcome of what I created;

This is my analogue make-up look, I used the colours pink & red as they are next to eachother on the colour wheel chart. I like how this has turned out because it does look rather natural & not over the top.

This make-up is my complimentary make-up look. For this, I used the colours purple & yellow. Again, I like how this turned out because even though these colours aren't natural colours, they still don't look over the top so it still works well for the way that I see it. 

Extreme Contouring

Contouring is different for every model. You need to observe the face & bone structure to see when to apply the highlight, shading & where the light is going to hit the face, whether it's for strong lighting from a studio light or just a natural lighting. Things to consider when extreme contouring or just normal contouring are, the neck, the neckline & also the hands in comparison to the colour of the face to make sure that it's of an even colour and doesn't stand out to be different. 

How to create this look;

1. Apply a primer all over the face, we used Illamasqua Matt

2. You start by highlighing the face, we used Kryolan TV White. Highlight the cheeks, forehead, jaw & bridge of the nose

3. Blending is very important, you need to do it all over the face, including into the hairline, with a large rounded brush so there are no obvious lines

4. You need to remember to focus on the eyes, ears & neck as these are the places that hit the light. Use a smaller brush to get into the creases of the eyes & go over the ears to make sure that they are the same colour as the rest of the face, this also applies to the neck too

5. Press powder into the face over the highlighted area to make it set nicely, for this, we used Illamasqua Translucent

6. You don't have to have a contouring set to do to the contour part, you can use a matte eyeshadow or blusher. Contour is applied to the sunken parts of the face or where the shadows are, so this is under the cheekbones, in the temples, just slightly on the jaw line, around the nose, under the brows & slightly around the eyes

The main factor with contouring is that you can contour & highlight as much as you like to create which ever look you want, so it's important to start with little & build it up so you don't over do it because it's easier to add more than to take some off without ruining your complete look. 

This is the demonstration by Kat, step by step;

This is my own attempt on my face with extreme contouring;

I think my attempt of extreme contouring went well on myself, we only did half a face to show the difference with how it looks compared to the normal face. I like doing contouring of my face for everyday wear, so for me, this was rather easy & I do just love doing it! 

The Westmore Family

The Westmore family is a prominent family in Hollywood make-up. The artistic family, which are made up of four generations, are led by George Westmore. They have all served as make-up artists in various capacities in Hollywood since George's establishment of Hollywood's first make-up department in 1917. 

George Westmore was born on the Isle of Wight, UK in 1879. He started a career in hairdressing before moving to LA & set up Hollywood's first film make-up department in Selig studio in 1917. Since then, the four generations of the Westmore family have followed in their ancestors footsteps as make-up artists. During the 1920s, George's sons, Perc, Wally, Frank, Ern, Bud & Monte, became head make-up artists at four major studios and were successful within both the beauty & horror areas with their individual approaches to the make-up industry.

As times went on, they built the House of Westmore salon, which served the public as well as celebrities. Later generations continued the name & continued to work in the make-up industry as well as the theatrical make-up artists. I admire the Westmore family for everything they've done because they also worked as therapeutic make-up artists who helped victims of disease, burns & other incidents to cover scars or any other physical disfigurement. 

http://www.latimes.com/includes/projects/hollywood/wof_stars/the_westmores_motion_pictures.jpg

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Tudor Cosmetics

In the 16th & 17th century, Queen Elizabeth I set the fashion trends and as she aged, she had to change the trend with the condition of her skin which meant she had to wear more elaborate make-up. When she was 28 years old, Elizabeth contracted small pox which left her left scarring on her face which made her insecure. To do this, she used heavy white make-up, however, in the Elizabethan era, it was called facepaint. 

The ideal Tudor women was meant to be a view of pure beauty. This image was a women with light coloured hair & a snow white complexion which was complimented with red cheeks & red lips. This was all a sign of wealth due to the fact that poorer women were expected to work outside which would give them a natural tan, which is the complete different dynamic to today's way of looking at skin tones! This was achieved by putting ceruse, which is made up of white lead & vinegar. This was actually poisonous to the skin, which is what aged Queen Elizabeth alot. To get the colouring in the lips & cheeks, they used something called cochineal which is food colouring that is used in all sorts of make-up, foods, drinks & red meat. This is made up of crushed beetles which has been used for colouring make-up for centuries which date back to the Egyptians. Another thing they used for colouring was coal. This was used to darken the eyelashes as mascara wasn't around then. However, this was a luxury item from the East so not many could afford to have this. The light coloured hair was a must for Tudor women due to the fact that Queen Elizabeth had light coloured hair, also because it was meant to show a sign of wisdom. If you were lucky enough to already have fair hair, then brilliant you didn't need to do anything about it!, but if you weren't, you would have to dye the hair. To do this, they would use a mixture of cumin seeds, saffron, celandine & oil. Coating the hair in all this wasn't any good for it though! This lead to the hair thinning and the development of alopecia, which meant that a lot of women, including Queen Elizabeth, had to wear wigs & hair pieces. Queen Elizabeth had a stock pile of over 80 hair pieces & wigs to herself! 

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Film Research

Elizabeth - 1998

Elizabeth was filmed in 1998, directed by Shekhar & was a biographical film written by Michael Hirst. Cate Blanchett played the title role of Queen Elizabeth I of England. This film was loosely based on the early years of Elizabeth's reign. We watched this film during our lessons and it was actually alot more interesting then I believe it would have been. The hair & make-up designer was Jenny Shircore & the make-up artist for the film was Anita Burger. 

Information & image from; http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/

Fire Over England - 1937

Fire Over England is a 1937 London Film Production, drama genre film. It was directed by William K. Howard & written by Clemence Dane from the novel Fire Over England by A.E.W. Mason. The film is a historical drama set during the reign of Elizabeth I, focusing on England's victory over the Spanish Armada. In 1588, relations between Spain & England  were at breaking point. With the support of Queen Elizabeth I, played by Flora Robson, English privateers such as Sir Francis Drake regularly captured Spanish merchantmen bringing gold from the New World. 

Information & image from;https://archive.org/details/FireOverEngland

The Virgin Queen - 1955

The Virgin Queen is a 1955 historical film starring Bettee Davis, Richard Todd & Joan Collins. It focuses on the relationship between Elizabeth I of England & Sir Walter Raleigh. This film marks the second time Davis played Queen Elizabeth, the first being in 1939; The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex. Bette Davis really captured the ideal image for this role because she went into character so well. At the time, Davis was considered the most beautiful actress in Hollywood but she didn't want this displayed in this certain film. She stood out most for her capturing eyes. Davis got so into this role that she shaved back her hair line three inches & also shaved off her eyebrows to really get the depth in the forehead that Elizabeth I had. She really went out of her way to look the part for this film, and she did it with the help of Perc Westmore.

Information & image from; http://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/virgin_queen/

http://images.moviepostershop.com/the-virgin-queen-movie-poster-1955-1010686436.jpg

Elizabeth R - 1971

Elizabeth R is a BBC television drama series of six 85-minute plays starring Glenda Jackson as the title role. It was first broadcasted on BBC2 from February - March 1971. Throughout looking through all the different productions of Elizabeth I, majority all shave the eyebrows off or cover them to make the forehead larger like Elizabeth's was. However, the eyebrows in this production give away the 70s era that it was filmed in because the eyebrows are so distinctive. 

 Information & image from; http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066652/

The Virgin Queen - November 2005

The Virgin Queen is a BBC production split into a four part miniseries based upon the life of Queen Elizabeth, starring Anne-Marie Duff. Unlike other productions of Queen Elizabeth, this version is heavily focused on her private life, particularly her relationship with Robert Dudley & also explores the politics of her reign in a lot less depth. The make-up artist for this production was Neil Gorton, however, there were a lot of other people that made up the team. 

Information & image from; http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0481459/ & http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61cAUtYyeEL._SL500_SX300_.jpg 

Elizabeth I - September 2005

Elizabeth I is a two-part British historical drama miniseries directed by Tom Hooper, written by Nigel Williams & starring Helen Mirren as Queen Elizabeth I of England. The miniseries covers the last 24 years of her 45 year reign. Part 1 focuses on the final years of her relationship with the Earl of  Leicestershire, Robert Dudley. Part 2 focuses on her subsequent relationship with the Earl of Essex, Robert  Devereux. The series was aired on ITV. Fae Hammond was the hair styling designer & Su Westwood was the hair stylist, whereas the make-up artist was Jan Hope-Kavanagh. 

Information & image from; http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0465326/

Shakespeare in Love - 1998

Shakespeare in Love is a 1998 British-American romantic comedy-drama film directed by John Madden, written by Marc Norman & playwright by Tom Stoppard. Although Shakespeare in Love isn't directly about Queen Elizabeth I, it still portrays an amazing Elizabeth played by Judi Dench, who plays the part perfectly. There was a number of people who made up the make-up team for this production, however, the senior artist was Veronica Brebner while the hair & make-up designer was Lisa Westcott.

 Information & image from; http://www.rottentomatoes.com/m/shakespeare_in_love & http://www.hollywoodmemorabilia.com/files/cache/judi-dench-autographed-8x10-photo-shakespeare-in-love-academy-award-winner_4f355b405372b0d3c1f62bdc544e7eae.jpg

Elizabethan Beauty

My knowledge of Elizabethan Beauty is very limited as I have only studied the Tudor period when I was at school over 3 years ago, and history was never a strong subject for me. However, I do know that Queen Elizabeth was a strong iconic figure for other people to go by in them days. All the women looked up to her, all throughout her rein, for the latest and highest class of fashion of beauty that was around then.  

In the 1500s, the Elizabethan view of beauty was a women with flaming red hair & a fine white complexion complimented with red cheeks and bright red lips. The pale complexion was a sign of wealth & nobility, I already knew that from my tutor. The pale white skin was only really achieved by people of a higher class as people of a lower class were expected to work outside and obviously gain a suntan. The white make-up that they used was created through a mixture of white lead and vinegar, which was poisonous! They went to some crazy levels to look beautiful in them days, even to the extremes of dying their hair with a yellow mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil just so they'd look a little more like the Virgin Queen. With so much product going into the hair that isn't meant to, wigs & hair pieces also became a big thing due to the hair loss that everyone experienced. It was known that Queen Elizabeth owned over 80 wigs! 

Image from; http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm

Elizabethan Era Book Research

'Fashion in Make-Up; 

From Ancient to Modern Times'

(Pages 102 - 120)

'Corson, R. (2005). Fashion in Make-Up: From Ancient to Modern Times. Universe Books. Peter Owen.'

Majority of my work, whatever subject I may do, is usually internet based research. 

So I wanted to wide my knowledge by including some books into my blog. Obviously they have to be about the Elizabethan era, so I went to the LRC at the university library & took out two books to help me with my research.

This book helped me to understand a little more on how the women did their make-up in the Elizabethan era. It also taught me on the different techniques & methods that they used in order to achieve their desired looked which is still so iconic in today's times! It even shocked me to find out that some of the products that they created themselves were actually poisonous yet they still used it in order to be beautiful. This is why Queen Elizabeth's ages so drastically after years of being the beautiful fashion queen. 

From reading through this section of book, it has already helped me to gain more of an understanding on how to apply the make-up in the same way that they did then & also what it actually does to the skin, which is more interesting than anything. 

'History of Hair'

(Pages 42 - 49)

'Bryer, R. (2000). The History of Hair: Fashion and Fantasy Down the Ages. the University of California. Philip Wilson.'

This book, 'The History of Hair', strengthen my knowledge of Elizabethan hair because it taught me some things that i didn't already know. It states that 'Elizabethan wears her hair long and loose, its golden hue contrasting with the white of the ermine and merging with the gold of the cloak.'  
This talks about the picture that is to the right side. It also demonstrates the depth of an Elizabethan forehead, the black rim around the head is where a normal hair lines should be compared to an Elizabethan one. This book also taught me that majority of Elizabethans would shave their head back to make it look fashionable like that Virgin Queen. 

I don't normally use books as a source of research because I find it difficult to pin point certain parts of the book or just get too confused because there is too much information to chose from. I think I did well though to get this information as it did really help me to understand a bit more about the era and their hairstyles. 

Introduction to Project Brief

Who Am I...?  

My name is Hannah Thornborough, I am 19 years old & just love make-up and everything about it. My background is that of art & photography throughout my school & college years. I loved doing this and it's what really got me into my love for make-up. I studied A Level Photography, Media Studies and Travel & Tourism at my college and loved every minute of it! I took the dive into applying for the BA (HONS) Hair & Make-Up Design course at Solent University because I've always been more creative and hands on rather than academic, although when I get into the swing of it, I do love writing! Just don't let my tutor know because we've already got enough to do! I chose to come to Southampton because my older sister was a student at Solent & I've been coming to Southampton my whole life to see family friends, so it gave me a lot of comfort when moving out to know that I already knew the area that I would be living in for the next 3 years of my life, instead of somewhere completely knew & way out of my comfort zone.  

I don't have much experience when it comes to make-up professionally. I've done the odd little jobs like prom make-up & hair for my younger brothers friends. However, i've done more events for facepainting. I recently did a charity event for my friend to help raise money for St Michaels Hospice & also done school fates for my younger brothers special needs school. Last halloween, I also did my friends make-up and created a zip down their face's & also down their eye. I really enjoyed doing that because its like pure artwork straight onto the face. Just seeing the joy on everyones face once they've had their make-up or facepaint done was just so rewarding! 

As for the future, I'm not sure what direction I will take yet. Right now, i'm looking down the direction of special effects & prosthetic work for the likes of Doctor Who and the BBC in general. But, as the 3 years develop, I'm sure I will find something I like more and completely change my direction. 

Image from; http://www.stefaniesloane.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Queen-Elizabeth-200x267.jpg

Our whole project is based on the Elizabethan era, hence the subject title being 'The New Elizabethans' I don't really know much about this time period other than it's all based during the 16th century. Already, I have learnt so much about this time period and the way they lived in just a two weeks of being at uni! Some bits shocked me, like how they would use poisonous ingredients for their make-up! I also know that Queen Elizabeth was the fashion icon of that time, that's why they called her the fashion queen. I'm looking forward to learning more about how this era of people applied and created their make-up & hair styles because its such an iconic time period. 

Charles Fox Lecture

So not only were we lucky enough to have a talk from Illamasqua, but the next day, we also got one from Charles Fox! Our minds were literally blown at the end of this week!

65 years ago, Kryolan was created by a chemist named Arnold Langer, it was all developed and founded in Berlin where Langer had most of his inspiration from the glitz & glamour of the era. He isn't the usual type of make-up company created because he also enjoyed science. This is how Kryolan was formed, he merged the two together and work on both sides of it unlike some make-up company's. 65 years on, and the company is still family run & working stronger than ever! 

This was our demonstration room where we were told about the products. I liked how the Charles Fox representative told us about the products because she explained each one, what they were used for & if we had them in our kits or not. She went into a lot of detail which I found very helpful. It also taught me how big of a company Charles Fox is because as well as beauty, they also do work in all aspects of the industry like film, tv, special fx, fashion, body paint & air brushing as well as a lot more.

I really learnt alot from this lecture because it taught me how one company can do some many different things and as well as all the best products to use & when. It was a true inspiration listening to our guest speaker. 

Illamasqua Lecture & Workshop

I don't really know where to begin with this Illamasqua talk, because it was so inspirational! We had three women from the Illamasqua team come in to talk to us about what they do & what our futures could hold, which was a bit overwhelming seeing as it was our first week of uni! They told us a bit about the company which I didn't already know. Illamasqua is an Independent British company that only uses synthetic brushes to avoid cutlery to animals & this also means that they have a cruelty free records. 

Charlotte, one of the make-up artists, gave us a demonstration of make-up. This make-up is what they have been currently using on the fashion walk at Sorapol. This was a very targeted fashion walk because it was with only females of a darker skin tone. I loved this because it shows how to work on a darker skin tone because it can sometimes be rather difficult. Charlotte then chose one of the girls in the lecture hall to have their make-up done in the style that she had just been doing on the professional models. These are a few pictures from the lecture;

These pictures show the model getting done up, the final outcome & also Charlotte's make-up table and the products she used. These are the products she used & what they were for;

Hydra Veil Primer to prep the skin

Honour & Navy Pencil for the colour in the eyes

From the Once Collection, Embellish which was buffed over the top of the honour & navy

Reflections Pallet, which gets the pot light effect in the corner of the eyes & really blows them out

Skin Base 18 for the darker skin tones that Illamasqua have to offer

Highlighter Brush to get the highlight glow down the centre of the face

Apocalips Lipstick. 

Illamasqua Workshop

I really enjoyed that workshop part of this because it meant that we could work closely with the Illamasqua team, instead of just listening to them, & actually use our kits for the first time! Which ofcourse we'd all been dying to do!
Our task was to get into teams of 2 or 3 and create a small pitch idea. We had only 15 minutes to create our make-up look & our pitch talk. I worked with Jay Kale & Naomi Parsons for this task. I was their model who they had to work one & this is the outcome;

Our pitch was 'This is Zora, an underwater alien creature who is starring in a short film called The Abyss'. We had so much fun doing this because it shows not only how good you work as a team but how creative you can be within just 15 minutes! I think we did well in this task and it made us closer as friends. We used a lot of green, blue & gold colours to create this image because it represented the sea colours that look like scales and also those of what we would believe an alien to look like. 

Induction Week

My first day at uni...

#SELFIE

I can honestly say that I loved my first week of uni! We did things that I wasn't expecting & also didn't quite understand why we were doing some of the things but it was still brilliant. The whole purpose of it all was to get everyone talking and just generally make friends & feel comfortable with our peers. 

Needless to say, it worked well & I've met some amazing people through doing it! 

Finding the Location

One of our first 'getting to know each other & the area' tasks was to go around Southampton city center and find the three locations that we were told to find. This included;

The Mayflower Theater 

West Quay Shopping Center

Southampton City Art Gallery

I've been coming to and from Southampton my whole life, so it's like a second home to me. So this task was an easy one! I went to each place with my friend Jay and once there, we had to take a selfie to prove we did the task. Trying to get some of these selfie pictures were a little embarrassing when people were watching! 

Make-Up Counters to Find

Our next task was to go and find a few make-up counters that were located either within West Quay shopping center or just outside on the high street. Once finding the counters, we had to take pictures of what they look like & also speak to someone who worked from the company and ask what their hero product is. A hero product is a company's best selling, number one product. The counters we had to find were;

M.A.C

M.A.C offer a wide variety of products to all different ages, skin types & social classes. Majority of M.A.Cs products are relatively affordable, however, I believe that some can be slightly over priced. The make-up counter layout is targeting a young audience. They use alot of colour in their products and make things easy to find & to know what each product is. M.A.C has 3 hero products, Ruby Woo lipstick, Studio Fix Fluid foundation & also 'In 

Extreme Dimension 3D mascara. 

Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown is American make-up artist who created her own brand. This is why she is such an inspiration to majority of make-up artists because a lot of people wish that they could create their own brand, let alone have it as a big success! I like Bobbi Brown make-up & tools, however, I believe the products are rather expensive for the every day person to buy, but if you do get something, it is also amazing to use! So it's a bit of a dilemma! Bobbi Brown have their top 10 products displayed on show at their store, Southampton, John Lewis. This was really helpful because other stores only have a top 2 or 3. These are their top 10 products;
1. Long Wear Gel Liner, 2. Lip Colour, 3. Corrector/Concealer, 4. Smokey Eye Mascara, 5. Bronzing Powder, 6. Skin Foundation Sticks, 7. Vitamin Enriched Face Base, 8. Pot Rouge 9. Shimmer Brick, 10. Long Wear Cream Shadow Stick. 

Benefit

Although I was unable to get a picture of the Benefit make-up counter, because I got tricked into buying some & sampling some products.... Woops!, everyone knows what they look like because they stand out so much with their pink, girly design. This counter is rather confusing to select a target audience because the design of it is very pink & girl, but when you look at the products, they have something for everyone! 
Benefits top five hero products are;
'They're Real Mascara'
'They're Real Liner'
'Hoola Bronzer'
'Professional Primer'
'Brow Zings' 

Smashbox

Smashbox hasn't been around for too long. It was started up in 1990 by David Factor. I like the make-up counter for Smashbox, which was located just outside West Quay in Boots, because it is simplistic both with the make-up counter & the products themselves. I also wouldn't say they have a target audience because it's so mixed! They have the colours to attract the younger ages yet with the simplistic counter & products, it attracts the elder ages. I really like this counter because it looks so professional and it's one that I hadn't heard of before being told to find the counter! Smashbox's hero product is called 'Photo Finish foundation primer'. 

Laura Mercier 

The Laura Mercier make-up counter surprised me when I went to go see it, as it is a lot smaller than many of the other counters that were around. It was located inside John Lewis store and compared to the likes of Bobbi Brown & M.A.C counters, it was rather petit. I was expecting it to be a little larger as it is such a well known name. When there, the type of people that visited the counter was of an older generation to myself and I believe this is because it has alot of natural earth colours opposed to some brighter ones in the other counters. I would say this is there target audience and it shows that it works well for the Laura Mercier name & company. Their top three hero products were displayed for us to see on the counter by the till. These were;
'Secret Camouflage Concealer' 
'Foundation Primer' 
'Tinted Moisturiser' 

Bag Heads

Our final task during our induction week was to create a bad head. This was to get our creativity flowing & to just have a bit of fun with our new class mates, ofcourse another bonding exercise! This is where we all first started to really see eachothers creative sides and it showed how different the directions everyone could go in with the same equipment to use and just our minds. Everyone's were amazing and it really was alot of fun to just look at what everyone else could think of on the spot just like that! At first, I was a bit clueless of what to do but then I decided on curling some black thin paper and creating a bow on top in the style of Lady GaGa. I also gave my bag glittery, bright red, kissing lips & also big eyelashes, with one winking, to make the eyes stand out. We then had to go take a group photo somewhere around Southampton with our heads on. This is how it turned out;

 I really enjoyed this exercise because it did bring everyone a bit closer together because we had to do something wacky and out of our comfort zone!